funny shit

Marni's Mastery

Marni's Autumn/Winter 2010/11 collection was one of my favorites. The bulky textures and delicate, somber sheers made the show versatile and wearable. I love the rectangular silhouette of the ensemble above, and the angle that the jacket's zipper falls is elegant. The translucent knee socks below are something I haven't seen before, but they work well with the rest of the outfit and take classy to a new level.
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Hats off to Hats

While some believe sun hats are too costume-like for their wardrobe, adding one to a simple outfit is a great way to achieve a classic, charming look. Hats fit well in virtually every style personality and also provide ample sun protection without that sticky, pore-clogging sunscreen business. Currently, I've got my eye on the gold, vintage-inspired straw hats that extend out.

Circa 1960

Georgiana, The Duchess of Devonshire, circa 1782

Claudia Cardinale, Italian actress, circa 1960

A Must See: Fred Lyon's "San Francisco Then"

The 1940’s and 50’s era is making a comeback, as its lifestyle is reflecting in fashion, photography, and more. Vogue’s July 2010 cover featuring Marion Cotillard was very 1950’s-esque, as she sported soft, cropped curls and an off-the-shoulder, elegant dress. In that same issue, model Natalia Vodianova and actor Ewan McGregor posed in an editorial spread which told a cinematic, 1950’s story of the era’s model couple and their hidden flaws. The spread showcased Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren’s fall collections, which all seem to possess a common inspiration—the fifties.

So, the question remains: how accurately does the new wave of fifties-inspired fashion and photography depict the authentic photography from the time period? With Fred Lyon’s archived collection of photographs from the 1940’s through the 1950’s, “San Francisco Then,” exploring this concept is just a few blocks away.

After a brief walk, I entered the crisp, clean Modernbook Gallery on Geary Blvd. on a Wednesday afternoon, looking forward to seeing Lyon’s photographs up close and personal. My first impression of the gallery was positive, as the washed white walls set off Lyon’s huge black-and-white photographs beautifully. Although I have only lived in San Francisco for five weeks, I quickly began to make comparisons. Lyon’s photograph of Market Street in 1946 looked strikingly similar to Market Street today, with the vintage busses, trolleys, and signs restored.


But, there was something that clearly distinguished this 1940’s snapshot from what I see on a daily basis—the people. Current-day, the individual’s ability to put themselves together tastefully day-to-day has nearly diminished within the population. It’s quite disappointing. What has caused this to happen?

First and foremost, let’s take a quick look at how the public dressed in the forties and fifties. The 1940’s in women’s fashion was defined by Christian Dior’s “New Look,” featuring a pinched waist and a long, full skirt. Women wore low-heeled shoes as opposed to high heels, and hair was worn in high curls in the front. Actress and dancer Rita Hayworth popularized the sweater for the first time. A prevalent element of men’s fashion in the forties was the “Zoot Suit,” which many had strong opinions about. Its high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed trousers paired with a long coat with wide lapels portrayed a bit of a clown-like look, but the suit remained in high demand. Overall, the 1940’s decade featured very innovative, never-before-seen styles that continued to influence fashion for years to come.

In the 1950’s, teen culture began to develop and grow in importance. Teenagers played a significant role in the economy, as they spent a huge amount of money on clothing, consumer goods, automobiles, and entertainment. Blue jeans boomed in men’s fashion, while poodle skirts were a popular item among teenage girls. Fifties clothing for adults was quite conservative. Gray flannel suits for men and Chanel dress suits for women were prevalent choices. Because men had returned from World War II, women working in the factories were shifted back into the home, where they were needed for cooking, cleaning, and raising the children. Pinched-waist, full-skirted dresses were the ideal option for the common housewife.

When looking at Lyon’s photograph of Market Street in 1946, the first detail I noticed was how well put-together virtually every individual in the photograph appears to be. Every man wears suit pants, a button-down dress shirt, a suit coat, and dress shoes. The wardrobe of the women in the photograph consists of a tailored dress, overcoat, stockings, and heels. A common feature in both men and women’s attire are hats.

Now for some comparing… If you take a stroll down Market Street in 2010, what fashion choices would you see? Naturally, those well-dressed businessmen and women will remain to chose their work clothing tastefully, but many others are far from that. Some individuals are so fixated on being unique that their style choices start to turn sour. The truth is that it is a real talent to be able to put together outfits that are completely innovative yet still tasteful.

After mulling over the subject of style and how people dress themselves, I’ve broken down the population into four categories. There are those who dress themselves adequately, those who dress uniquely and pull it off, those who dress uniquely and cannot pull it off, and those who are fearful of the whole concept and don’t develop their own style at all. It’s apparent that the most populated category is the latter, as so many simply want to blend into the masses. Refusing to develop your own style saves you time and quite a lot of money, but wouldn’t it be depressing? Well, that is completely dependent on the individual. I find putting together outfits stimulating. I challenge myself to juxtapose new pieces with vintage garments for a classic yet innovative look. With that said, others might not find this even slightly intriguing.

Regardless, anyone with an interest in history, photography, or fashion is likely to find Lyon’s exhibit rather fascinating. Allot some time to explore how San Francisco has revolutionized in the course of the past seven decades through this collection of scenic, authentic photographs, showcased in Modernbook Gallery until August 28.

Lost and Found

LOST: on a roadtrip from Portland to San Francisco
FOUND: a sea of sunflowers

A Leading Light of the Twentieth Century

Fashion designer of the late 1940s and 1950s, Christian Dior, greatly influenced fashion after World War II with the introduction of the first hourglass silhouette in his “New Look.” Equally as significant but less known was the new business model for the post-war fashion industry that Dior established and practiced. Dior's reputation as one of the most noteworthy fashion designers of the twentieth century began in 1947 when his “New Look,” characterized by rounded shoulders, a small waist, and a full skirt hit the market and boomed from then on out. Dior’s designs purely commemorated femininity and luxury in women's apparel.

Dior was born in Normandy, France, and moved to Paris with his parents as a ten-year-old. There he studied political science and later served in the military. Dior’s parents hoped he would complete a degree in politics, which would prepare him for a diplomatic career. In 1928, his father gave him enough money to open an art gallery, as long as the family name did not appear above the door.

After returning to Paris in 1935, Dior began selling his sketches, marking the beginning of his career as a designer. Dior was exposed to great design talent through working with designers like Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong in the late 1930s. With the help of textile manufacturer and entrepreneur Marcel Boussac, Dior opened his own design house in 1946 with a record-breaking budget of FFr60 million. Soon after, the house of Dior and its eighty-five employees moved into a mansion, which was extensively decorated in Dior’s favorite colors, white and gray.

The first Christian Dior couture show took place on February 12, 1947. The pubic’s reaction to Dior’s designs was easily described as enthusiastic and impressed. “It’s quite a revelation dear Christian,” declared editor of the United States’ Harper’s Bazaar, Carmel Snow. “Your dresses have such a new look.”

The New Look was just what the fashion world was missing in the post-war era. Dior was accurate in presuming that women would desire something brand new after a time of war, violence and hardship. Dior’s traditional concept of femininity fit the political agenda as well. Women were forced to leave their farm and factory jobs and return to passive roles as housewives and mothers as the soldiers returned home from the war. The role of post-war women was to be an able, loving housewife who maintained a happy home for her family, and Dior’s lines catered to these women perfectly.

In Spring 1947, Dior produced "figure 8," which accented the New Look’s silhouette with prominent shoulders, emphasized hips, and a pinched waist. His spring 1953 collection, "Tulip," included many feminine, soft prints. Dior’s Spring 1955 "A-line" featured a much smoother silhouette that broadened at the hips and legs, similar to the capital letter "A."

While Dior’s aesthetic gained huge popularity among the public, many looked up to him as an innovator of French culture.” [Dior] was so famous in France at the time. It seemed as if he wasn’t a man, but an institution,” said French fashion designer Christian Lacroix. Dior’s name was known across the globe and his label accounted for half of France’s haute couture exports.

Dior and partner Jacques Rouet also established license agreements in the fashion industry. By 1948, Dior had set up profitable licensing deals for fur, stockings, and perfumes, producing great revenue and establishing himself as a household name.

As Dior’s career flourished, the prosperous designer bought an old mill outside of Paris and a flower farm in the heart of Provence, where he wandered with his dog, Bobby, gardened, and collected art and antiques. Dior had always been bashful, so he left the social aspect of his career to his lively sales director, Suzanne Luling. Growing more and more superstitious with age, Dior’s quirks were apparent in his career. Every collection Dior designed had to include a coat called the “Granville”, named after his birthplace. In runway shows, at least one model wore a small bunch of lilies of the valley, Dior’s favorite flower. Dior never started a couture show without first consulting his tarot card reader.

The fashion world was sadly left without a king of style on October 24, 1957 when Dior passed away from heart failure at the age of 52. Although Dior designed under his own name for only one decade, his influence will be forever remembered. Dior’s faultlessly classic fashion innovations will remain ever-present in styles for years to come.