The 1940’s and 50’s era is making a comeback, as its lifestyle is reflecting in fashion, photography, and more. Vogue’s July 2010 cover featuring Marion Cotillard was very 1950’s-esque, as she sported soft, cropped curls and an off-the-shoulder, elegant dress. In that same issue, model Natalia Vodianova and actor Ewan McGregor posed in an editorial spread which told a cinematic, 1950’s story of the era’s model couple and their hidden flaws. The spread showcased Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren’s fall collections, which all seem to possess a common inspiration—the fifties.
So, the question remains: how accurately does the new wave of fifties-inspired fashion and photography depict the authentic photography from the time period? With Fred Lyon’s archived collection of photographs from the 1940’s through the 1950’s, “San Francisco Then,” exploring this concept is just a few blocks away.
After a brief walk, I entered the crisp, clean Modernbook Gallery on Geary Blvd. on a Wednesday afternoon, looking forward to seeing Lyon’s photographs up close and personal. My first impression of the gallery was positive, as the washed white walls set off Lyon’s huge black-and-white photographs beautifully. Although I have only lived in San Francisco for five weeks, I quickly began to make comparisons. Lyon’s photograph of Market Street in 1946 looked strikingly similar to Market Street today, with the vintage busses, trolleys, and signs restored.
But, there was something that clearly distinguished this 1940’s snapshot from what I see on a daily basis—the people. Current-day, the individual’s ability to put themselves together tastefully day-to-day has nearly diminished within the population. It’s quite disappointing. What has caused this to happen?
First and foremost, let’s take a quick look at how the public dressed in the forties and fifties. The 1940’s in women’s fashion was defined by Christian Dior’s “New Look,” featuring a pinched waist and a long, full skirt. Women wore low-heeled shoes as opposed to high heels, and hair was worn in high curls in the front. Actress and dancer Rita Hayworth popularized the sweater for the first time. A prevalent element of men’s fashion in the forties was the “Zoot Suit,” which many had strong opinions about. Its high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed trousers paired with a long coat with wide lapels portrayed a bit of a clown-like look, but the suit remained in high demand. Overall, the 1940’s decade featured very innovative, never-before-seen styles that continued to influence fashion for years to come.
In the 1950’s, teen culture began to develop and grow in importance. Teenagers played a significant role in the economy, as they spent a huge amount of money on clothing, consumer goods, automobiles, and entertainment. Blue jeans boomed in men’s fashion, while poodle skirts were a popular item among teenage girls. Fifties clothing for adults was quite conservative. Gray flannel suits for men and Chanel dress suits for women were prevalent choices. Because men had returned from World War II, women working in the factories were shifted back into the home, where they were needed for cooking, cleaning, and raising the children. Pinched-waist, full-skirted dresses were the ideal option for the common housewife.
When looking at Lyon’s photograph of Market Street in 1946, the first detail I noticed was how well put-together virtually every individual in the photograph appears to be. Every man wears suit pants, a button-down dress shirt, a suit coat, and dress shoes. The wardrobe of the women in the photograph consists of a tailored dress, overcoat, stockings, and heels. A common feature in both men and women’s attire are hats.
Now for some comparing… If you take a stroll down Market Street in 2010, what fashion choices would you see? Naturally, those well-dressed businessmen and women will remain to chose their work clothing tastefully, but many others are far from that. Some individuals are so fixated on being unique that their style choices start to turn sour. The truth is that it is a real talent to be able to put together outfits that are completely innovative yet still tasteful.
After mulling over the subject of style and how people dress themselves, I’ve broken down the population into four categories. There are those who dress themselves adequately, those who dress uniquely and pull it off, those who dress uniquely and cannot pull it off, and those who are fearful of the whole concept and don’t develop their own style at all. It’s apparent that the most populated category is the latter, as so many simply want to blend into the masses. Refusing to develop your own style saves you time and quite a lot of money, but wouldn’t it be depressing? Well, that is completely dependent on the individual. I find putting together outfits stimulating. I challenge myself to juxtapose new pieces with vintage garments for a classic yet innovative look. With that said, others might not find this even slightly intriguing.
Regardless, anyone with an interest in history, photography, or fashion is likely to find Lyon’s exhibit rather fascinating. Allot some time to explore how San Francisco has revolutionized in the course of the past seven decades through this collection of scenic, authentic photographs, showcased in Modernbook Gallery until August 28.
Marni's Autumn/Winter 2010/11 collection was one of my favorites. The bulky textures and delicate, somber sheers made the show versatile and wearable. I love the rectangular silhouette of the ensemble above, and the angle that the jacket's zipper falls is elegant. The translucent knee socks below are something I haven't seen before, but they work well with the rest of the outfit and take classy to a new level.
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